Silverback Gorilla Trekking in Uganda
Silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda has always been high on my bucket list. Although high, it was one that felt far, far away. That was until I looked into it and learned there are fewer than 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the world. They are spread across three African countries: Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Gorilla trekking offers a glimpse into the world of this endangered species and a chance to contribute to their conservation. Tourism plays a crucial role in funding the protection of their habitat and the ongoing efforts to ensure their survival for generations to come.
Why Uganda? My research led me to decide between Rwanda and Uganda. Of the two, Rwanda is the more popular country for trekking. They have invested more in tourism infrastructure, making it relatively easy for travelers to access the park, obtain permits, and engage in gorilla trekking. As a result, it is also the most crowded place to trek.
The pros for Uganda were that it’s home to about half of the remaining mountain gorillas. This makes the rainforest we trekked a critical sanctuary for the survival of these majestic creatures. It draws fewer people and is a little less expensive. For these reasons, we chose Uganda. (During this trip, I traveled with my sister and her boyfriend. It is a perfect experience to make unforgettable memories with friends and family.)
Nestled in southwestern Uganda is the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This rainforest’s name reflects its thick vegetation and challenging terrain, making it difficult for humans to access and explore. That’s where your expert guides come into play.
Trip Recap
- Day 1: Exploring Entebbe Botanical Gardens was a perfect start to Uganda!
- Day 2: From Kihihi to Bwindi, we enjoyed stunning views and luxurious comfort.
- Days 3 to 4: Gorilla trekking on Christmas was an unforgettable, breathtaking adventure in Bwindi!
- Day 5: Grateful for unforgettable moments with silverback gorillas in pristine Bwindi rainforest.
Highlights
Seeing the silverback gorillas upclose!
Learning all about the gorillas and the conservation efforts.
The Christmas Eve fashion show from Kihihi to Bwindi.
Staying at the eco-luxe Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi!
Day 1
Welcome to Uganda!
We landed at Entebbe International Airport in Uganda early in the afternoon, so we had time to explore.
We spent the day walking around the expansive Entebbe Botanical Gardens. We saw birds, monkeys, and countless types of lush tropical vegetation. These gardens back up to Lake Victoria, which is the second-largest lake in the world after Lake Superior. Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania share its shores.
We had a sunset dinner waterside, then headed to our tropical garden lodge, The Boma. This was a cozy stay and a perfect first day in Uganda.
Day 2
Kihihi to Bwindi
The next morning, we flew from Entebbe to the Kihihi Airstrip in a small bush plane. These planes seat fewer than 20 people and do not have restrooms. When traveling in bush planes, there are mandatory weight restrictions for luggage, and you fly at low elevations. This makes for outstanding views and photos. We very strategically packed one duffel bag and one backpack each (hard shell suitcases are not allowed on these planes!).
Upon landing, we were greeted by our driver, the charismatic Kasamba. He took us from Kihihi to the remote Bwindi Forest. Here we hopped in our first of many safari vehicles on this trip, a rugged Toyota Land Cruiser. This was a two-hour drive that started on paved roads. About 30 minutes in, Kasamba said, ‘Are you ready for an African massage?’ as he made a right turn down a dirt road. Awaiting us were 1.5 bumpy hours of driving past small Ugandan villages, waving to the kids, and watching how families live. Many locals were dressed in their best and headed to gatherings on Christmas Eve. It was extraordinary to see this, it felt like a fashion show!
Buhoma Lodge
After the African massage, fashion show, and history lessons with Kasamba, we arrived at Buhoma Lodge, our home for the next 2 days. Buhoma is a well-regarded eco-friendly resort, nestled minutes from Bwindi Forest. Known for its breathtaking views and tastefully designed cottages, it is the perfect retreat after a day or two in the forest.
Noah, the manager, and his staff truly made us feel right at home. From fresh meals prepared with our dietary restrictions in mind to massages after trekking, to their boot cleaning service, and a bedside sherry nightcap. We were saying yes to all the luxury offered. We can’t recommend this lodge enough!
Days 3 to 4
Gorilla Trekking Day!
We woke up on Christmas, and it was the much-anticipated gorilla trekking day! We had a light breakfast, put on our gators, packed our prepared lunches, and headed to the base of Bwindi National Park. All the trekkers for the day met here for a briefing and to be divided into groups. The staff then assigned us to a lead guide and a gorilla family. Groups are no larger than eight people and are based on hiking skill level. We told the team we were in good shape and could manage a hearty climb.
It is essential to mention this is not Disneyland nor a zoo, no staged gorillas are waiting for you. The specialized trackers find and follow families roaming freely through rugged terrain. You could spend a couple of hours hiking uphill to catch up with your assigned family.
Lead Guide, Trackers & the Hike
Our lead guide was an expert in the forest, having spent years exploring it. He was in constant contact with the three trackers who had been scouting our assigned family of 17, the Rusheguras, since before dawn.
Our hike was 1 hour and 15 minutes uphill to the very top of Bwindi 😛. Bless those spin, yoga and HITT classes along with regular runs and hikes, I am not kidding! Finally, our lead guide got the call that we had caught up with the Rusheguras. The three trackers greeted us, and it was game time.
Machetes & Gorillas
The trackers each have machetes in hand, which makes this experience possible. At this point, you leave the perfect hiking path and begin following them into incredibly thick shrubbery. They are actively chopping away bushes and bamboo trees at every turn. As we navigated the dense undergrowth and ascended the mist-covered slopes, the anticipation built. We turned a corner, and there was our first sighting.
We were staring at one of the most beautiful beings alive, watching him eat breakfast with joy. It was incredibly powerful to see this enormous, jet-black ape lying angelically in a bright green bush. He was grabbing branches and leaves, just eating away without a care in the world. His beautiful eyes would stare up at us, then away as food was much more exciting. These gorillas are very used to humans, so it is pretty safe for us to be with them. The main direction is not to make sudden movements or loud noises. Also, the expert trackers know how to communicate with them through movement and sound, putting them at ease.
Jamba!
Our group had a good, silent laugh as the first gorilla began to pass gas for what seemed like 30 seconds. Even one of our trackers said, ‘Wow, long one. ’ LOL. The word for passing gas in Swahili is ‘jamba’. That was a long jamba and gave new meaning to the American smoothie joint, Jamba Juice.
For the next hour, as the gorillas moved, we moved, following the trackers as they cleared the way for us. We observed the mates swinging from branches, playing, squabbling a bit, breastfeeding, jamba-ing (lol), and babies being carried by their mommas. Then, we saw a silverback male gorilla. As safe as you are told you are, there are no words available to express the feeling of being a couple of feet from a humongous silverback. THE king of the jungle. Talk about one of the most humbling encounters where you are reminded of nature's majesty, and whose hood you are in. Queue sweating in your boots, my friends!
*Important to note that each gorilla family only spends one hour max with tourists a day. This regulation is out of respect for the animals, so they do not get too stressed out by constant visitors. I can relate!
Rinse Repeat (day 4)
If your time and budget allow, I recommend trekking with the gorillas for two days in a row. You can request to be assigned to a different family, and rest assured, you will have a different experience than the day before. The forest is too vast not to.
You spend all this time getting to Bwindi, so why not see the gorillas twice? If we had known how unforgettable this experience would be, we would have, hands down, booked two days with the gorillas.
Day 5
Goodbye Bwindi
Leaving Bwindi and heading back to the Kihihi Airstrip, we retraced the entire route, complete with the African massage 😉. As I said goodbye, my heart was filled with such gratitude.
Observing their sentient eyes and witnessing their intricate social dynamics, time stood still, and the world narrowed to those special moments. It’s a fleeting and undescribable privilege, this brush with the untamed wild of the natural world.
Conservation
Another beautiful advantage of visiting these beauties is the conservation it provides. The money we spend on permits is used toward park management, conservation, research, medical care, monitoring, community development, infrastructure, staff, and much more. If silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda interests you, do it, as the gorillas need our support for their survival.
The time spent in the almost untouched wild rainforest will be a lifetime memory. This adventure has instilled a deep appreciation for the fragility of our planet and the importance of preserving its treasures.
With all my appreciation to our lead guide, trackers, and the Rushegura family,
Bekah
Anything you would add or do differently?
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Planned for two days of trekking with the gorillas instead of one.
