Springtime in Albania - 2 Weeks

Our flight arrived at Tirana International Airport (TIA) in the afternoon after one stopover. My mom and I stayed in a cozy apartment on Rruga e Kavajës, directly across from Skanderbeg Square which is the heart of the city.

There are a few ways to get to the city center from the airport, but the most affordable and convenient is the Rinas Express / Luna Bus. Tickets cost €8 (about 400 lek) and can be purchased directly from the driver in cash. After exiting the arrivals hall, continue straight past all the rental cars until you reach the far end of the parking lot where several buses are lined up. Look for the one marked “TIRANA.”

Buses typically depart every hour on the dot, so it’s best to arrive early or else you may end up sitting on the steps or floor of the bus. If you miss it, your next best option is a taxi, which should cost around €25 (≈2,400 lek) to the city center.

That first evening, we stretched our legs with a walk through Rinia Park and Taiwan Center which is a lively area with cafés and locals out for evening strolls. Albania has a strong coffee culture so cafés are everywhere, and people spend hours chatting over an espresso at any time of day. It’s the perfect way to ease into the local rhythm.

We took it slow today to recover from jet lag and get reacquainted with the city. We wandered through Tirana’s streets and stopped at Toptani Mall near the Tirana Castle to meet up with a local friend. On the nearby streets, you’ll find tons of shops and restaurants. I highly recommend going to Cioccolatitaliani for dessert and a coffee. Their decadent chocolate cheesecake is absolutely worth a stop (we ended up going here 3 times during our trip).

The streets around Toptani and the castle are great for walking and shopping, though prices lean touristy. For dinner, we visited Oda Garden, one of my favorite restaurants in Tirana. Tucked away in a quiet corner, it serves authentic Albanian dishes that still taste homemade despite also being popular with tourists. The staff is friendly and atmosphere gives off cozy/boho vibes. This restaurant is also near the Tirana New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri) which is full of produce, handmade goods, and souvenirs.

After a couple of easy-going days, we decided to explore a bit further and took a public bus to Tirana East Gate (TEG) which is one of the largest malls in Albania. The fare is only 40 lek (about €0.35)!

Most drivers don’t speak English, so be patient and use gestures if needed. Locals are kind and usually willing to help. TEG Mall itself is modern and full of international shops, cafés, and restaurants. It’s a good spot to take a break from the city center’s bustle and enjoy a comfortable shopping experience.

Afterwards, we took the public bus from TEG to Tirana Lake Park which is a large lake surrounded by walking trails and plenty of cafés.

After exploring the lake and taking another bus back to our apartment, we walked to Conad Supermarket to stock up on groceries (gotta love our apartment kitchen!). Conad is my go-to supermarket in Albania. It’s clean, affordable, and full of fresh produce and local products. I prefer cooking at home rather than going out every day, so this was a great option for us.

Tip: Grocery shopping is a great cultural experience here. Even the most basic items such as cheese, tomatoes, and olive oil taste noticeably better and fresher than expected.

Optional Activities: If you don’t want to spend half a day shopping at a mall, I strongly encourage checking out Mali i Dajtit (Dajti Mountain) which you can reach by Taxi. There are fun activities for the whole family (e.g., mini golf, horse rides, cable car, paragliding, and restaurants).

Today we swapped city streets for sea views. I met up with a couple of friends who were also coincidentally visiting Albania at the same time, and we booked a ride through Taxi LUX, a reliable Taxi company with electric cars and fair prices. You can reserve rides through their app and then pay the driver in cash.

The drive to Durrës took about 40 minutes due to traffic. Durrës is Albania’s second-largest city and one of its oldest, sitting right on the Adriatic Sea. We spent the day walking along the boardwalk, stopping for coffee, and visiting the Durrës Castle, which is free to enter and easy to explore.

Before sunset, we hiked up the hill to Ahmet Zogu’s Villa (Vila e Zogut) which was once the summer home of Albania’s former king. It’s a bit of a hidden gem, and locals love to come here for the incredible views of the coastline during sunset. Watching the sun dip below the horizon from this hilltop was one of the trip’s most peaceful moments.

Dinner was fresh grilled fish at a seaside restaurant on the boardwalk, followed by a stop at a pastarella (a pastry shop) for dessert before heading back to Tirana via Taxi LUX. This was a simple day, but one that perfectly captured Albania’s charm. It was unhurried, welcoming, and full of natural beauty.

Last night, my boyfriend flew in and picked up our rental car from the airport. There are plenty of rental options at the airport and within the city center so there’s never any shortage of cars unless you’re visiting in the summer months which I’d recommend booking in advance. Driving in Tirana isn’t for everyone. Traffic is chaotic and hectic, parking is limited, and locals drive confidently (to put it lightly). If you’re not used to that, Albania’s public buses are cheap, frequent, and go nearly everywhere. For example, Tirana to Dhërmi costs about $12 for a 3-hour ride.

Our destination today was Berat, often called the “City of a Thousand Windows.” We stayed in an Airbnb near the town center and had lunch at Eni Traditional Food Restaurant, where the owner and his mother run the place together. She’s the chef, and the food is hearty, traditional, and full of flavor!

In the evening, we visited Berat Castle (Kalaja e Beratit) just before sunset. The climb is steep but absolutely worth it for the views across the valley and the iconic hillside houses with symmetrical windows.

Below are some examples of things to do in Berat:

-Climb to the Holy Trinity Church: The panoramic views from the top are worth it.

-Walk across the Gorica Bridge: The best vantage point for photos of the town’s famous “thousand windows.”

-Explore inside the Castle Walls: The interior is large enough to wander for hours; entrance is about 100 lek between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m., but the area itself remains open 24/7.

We woke up early and enjoyed walking around the cobblestone streets of Berat’s old town before stopping for coffee at Veranda Mangalem, a lovely bar-restaurant perched on a steep hill. The terrace offers beautiful views overlooking the city, but be prepared to climb to get there! You’ll see plenty of people pausing to catch their breath along the way.

After lunch, we hit the road toward Vlorë, a drive that took us through winding roads and small villages. Once in Vlorë, we stopped at Maison des Chefs, a French restaurant that completely surprised us with their delicious food (and expensive prices).

We checked into an Airbnb that was close to the sea and within walking distance to shops, restaurants, and nightlife. Later that night, we went to The Wave Bar, which our host recommended. It had a great vibe with a live DJ, friendly locals, and tons of dancing.

After a fun night out, we took it slow in the morning with brunch near the beach before leaving to go to Sarandë, one of Albania’s most famous coastal towns.

We made a mid-day stop in Dhërmi for lunch. Dhërmi is a beautiful little seaside village that’s well worth a visit in the summer due to their lively beach clubs. Since we visited in the shoulder season, it was a lot more quiet with many shops and restaurants still closed. After lunch, we continued on the scenic drive through Llogara National Park, one of Albania’s most breathtaking routes. The road winds through the Ceraunian Mountains, full of hairpin turns and sweeping views of the sea below.

If you’re driving, take it slow because the route is very curvy and large busses seem to come out of nowhere! During the drive, you’ll definitely want to stop at one of the viewpoints, especially Panorama Llogara, which overlooks the entire coastline.

Tip: If you’re traveling by bus from Tirana to the coast, sit on the right side of the bus for the best views!

By late afternoon, we arrived in Sarandë and checked into Sea Horizon VSL Suites & Apartments, which I found on Booking.com. We had a spacious room with a king bed, ocean views, and a balcony and only paid €150 for 3 nights! The location was perfect and quiet, just a short walk from the beach and main promenade. If you’re traveling in the summer, however, be prepared for the prices to be at least 3x more expensive which is why I strongly prefer visiting during the off-season or shoulder season instead.

We spent the day exploring Sarandë on foot, walking along the waterfront and browsing souvenir shops. For lunch, we stopped at Haxhi Restaurant, where the owner personally greeted us and made us feel right at home. The space is eclectic and filled with unique artifacts collected from around the world and every corner tells a story.

After a relaxed afternoon by the sea, we made our way up to Lëkurësi Castle just before sunset. The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular, and you can see the entire coastline and the island of Corfu in the distance. There’s also a rooftop bar and restaurant here, though when we visited (in the shoulder season) the rooftop bar wasn’t yet open. We stayed for dinner inside the restaurant instead, which was cozy and offered hearty local dishes with unbeatable views.

We had breakfast at Black Marlin FIsh Restaurant which was a great spot near our hotel and had friendly staff and delicious food. Their grilled octopus is a must-try if you come back for dinner!

Then we made our way to the popular Ksamil area where it’s heavily packed during the summer due to the crystal clear blue waters. It was rather empty when we visited since it was still early in the season, but the water did not disappoint!

After exploring the area, we made our way to Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its Ottoman-style houses and stone architecture. We stayed in a small guesthouse I found on Booking.com in a private room in a local woman’s home overlooking the castle. The hosts were incredibly warm and welcoming, and they surprised us with homemade moussaka for dinner, prepared entirely from scratch. It felt like eating with family.

The next morning began with a homemade breakfast served by our host and included fresh bread, jam, cheese, eggs, and tons of vegetables. Afterward, we made our way to the Gjirokastër Castle. The entry fee was about 400 lek which is a small price to pay for learning about the area’s rich history and walking around the grounds.

If you’re driving into Gjirokastër, note that GPS might try to take you up an unnecessarily steep road which is strictly for pedestrians. Instead, set your destination as Cerciz Topulli Square, which leads you up the correct route.

After lunch, we drove toward Përmet, stopping occasionally to enjoy the changing landscapes. We stayed in a private room at anther guesthouse where everything (butter, cheese, meat, eggs, bread) is homemade and grown on their own farm. We decided to have dinner at the guesthouse since the location was far from the main part of town. Our wonderful host cooked us traditional food that was so wholesome and paired well with the mountain views and tranquility.

Our host prepared us a large breakfast before we set off to visit the nearby thermal baths. The natural hot springs sit beside a stone bridge and are surrounded by green hills and are perfect for a relaxing dip. Again, since we were there in the shoulder season, the water was mostly lukewarm and the area was rather quiet with just a few locals taking a dip.

We also hiked in the nearby area, which has a few well-marked trails, then began the drive toward Korçë. This stretch of road is absolutely stunning and there's mountains everywhere, winding passes, and very little traffic. It ended up being one of my favorite drives of the entire trip.

Korçë is one of my favorite towns in Albania. The people are unbelievably kind and welcoming and we were greeted with smiles and conversation everywhere we went.

We spent the day walking through the Old Bazaar, a charming outdoor area filled with local crafts, souvenirs, and handmade goods. It’s also a great place to find better prices on souvenirs than the seaside towns or Tirana.

That evening, we went to C’era Una Volta, a lively bar known for its live music and energetic atmosphere. The owner, who’s also the lead singer and guitarist, performs every weekend alongside a talented violinist, drummer, and DJ. One of the most memorable parts of the night was that the band asked my boyfriend to come up on stage with them and play together! The crowd dances, sings, and truly makes you feel part of the family. I had met the DJ on a previous visit, and we all ended up staying out late, laughing and sharing stories until the early morning hours.

After a late night, we took it easy and spent most of the day relaxing and walking around town before driving to Dardhë, a small mountain village nearby where my mother’s family is from. We had lunch at Hotel Dardhë, a lovely spot surrounded by pine trees and mountain air.

Later that evening, we returned to C’era Una Volta to say goodbye to our new friends and enjoy one more night of music before moving on.

We woke up early to make the 3-hour drive back to Tirana and made a scenic stop in Pogradec, a beautiful lakeside town along Lake Ohrid. The waterfront is lined with cafés and restaurants, perfect for a coffee or quick lunch break.

After arriving in Tirana, we spent the rest of the evening relaxing and packing for our early morning flight back to the United States. The nice landlord of the apartment offered to give us a ride to the airport in the early hours of the morning so that we could catch our 6:00 a.m. flight. There are also alternate ways to get to the Airport from Tirana such as taking a taxi (about $25) or the Rinas Express / Luna Bus. I have taken all options in the past and had no issues finding a ride that early in the morning. The bus in particular is very reliable in my opinion.

I am sad to leave because Albania proved to be one of the most beautiful, welcoming, and rewarding destinations I’ve visited. Although I am rather biased since I was born there ;)