Week Long Stay On Paros Island, Greece With A Stopover in Athens

Today we departed the United States from Chicago on a non-stop flight into Athens. This is one of the tougher flights overseas, as it leaves Chicago at 4 p.m. It takes awhile before you feel tired enough to sleep, so you really have to jump into the next day without much sleep.

Arrived in Athens and took the flight from Athens to Paros. I had allowed for a 2 hour connection time, but our flight from Chicago had been delayed by about 45 minutes, so we were cutting it a bit close. Do not forget that if you check a bag, you will have to collect your luggage when you arrive in Athens, go to the desk and recheck your luggage and then get through security to get to the domestic terminal. It is well worth the little bit of extra money to purchase the fast track pass for Athens security. There was no one in that line, which is valuable when making a tight connection.

I flew Olympic Air (now owned and operated by Aegean Air) to Paros. They are part of the Star Alliance network, so you may be able to use United miles to purchase seats and are eligible to earn United miles on the flight. This was a double prop plane that held about 45- 50 passengers. Overhead space is too small for any wheeled carry on, so most people had to gate check their bags. You do have to take a shuttle bus to the place where you board the plane. The plane was new and the flight was only about 45 minutes long. Great experience.

The Paros airport is very tiny and easy to navigate.

I rented a car. It is necessary on this island. Taxi's and Ubers are hard to come by, so do not count on being able to access them easily. There are also a lot of moped and gator or other 4x4 rentals. They drive on the right side of the road, so that is not a concern for US drivers. That being said, the roads are VERY narrow and winding and parking is tight. Rent the smallest vehicle you can fit in. (You MUST have supplemental insurance. Scratches and dents are almost inevitable.) Avis had a nice pick up spot, 2 minutes off the airport property. A free shuttle will get you there. There are two rental companies at the airport but the space is so tiny at the check in, I found it was actually better to get off property. Be prepared to wait a bit and have an international driver's license. I wasn't asked for mine, but I've had other clients who have been. You can easily obtain these through AAA back in the United States.

We rented a beautiful home on Paros, just outside of Naousa. This gorgeous property had 2 "main" homes with living areas and kitchens and master bedrooms. There were three other identical casitas between the two main properties. Lots of beautiful outdoor space and a fantastic infinity pool. The concierge team through the villa was incredibly helpful; completely stocked the villa prior to arrival, made dinner and beach club reservations, chartered a boat for us and booked us a cooking class. They were incredibly responsive. Reach out to me for a large selection of private villas available on the island in all different sizes!

It is always a bit of a question whether to rent a home or stay on a resort. We enjoyed the private space and common areas that allowed us to spend quality time together. We were able to make runs to the grocery store that allowed us to cook some of our meals at home as well.

Tonight we ate dinner at Barbarossa in Naousa. Located right on the water, overlooking the harbor, the setting was fantastic. The food was delicious, but be very careful when ordering the fresh seafood "at market price." We ended up spending a ridiculous amount of money on this meal due to some crazy ordering. Drinks at Sante afterwards. Great music, vibe and excellent drinks.

NOTES ON PAROS:

*You cannot drink the tap water here, so if renting a home, pre-order bottled water. The water is salinated, so it just doesn't sit right with travelers.

*All beaches on Paros are public beaches.

*Fresh water on these islands is hard to come by. Try to be conscious of your water usage and note that many home have tanks that can run out. Simply let the owner know and they will make sure the tanks are refilled!

*If you plan to charter a boat for the day, do it early in your stay. The wind in the Cyclades is famous and weather conditions often cause the need to reschedule boat charters. Scheduling early can give you time to reschedule later in the week if needed. Ferries can also be cancelled due to the weather and high winds, so make sure to check the weather for the ENTIRE day if you go to another island. You don't want to get stuck for the night!

This morning we walked into Naousa and spent some time looking through the boutique shops. Naousa is a hub for good restaurants and unique and trendy shops. Plenty of places to stop for a coffee and people watch as well.

This afternoon we headed to The Beach Project, on Golden Beach. It is worthwhile to remind people that Paros has a rather rocky coastline with small beaches in between big outcroppings of rocks and cliffs. Golden Beach is one of the larger stretches of beach you can find. It can be windy, which is why you can rent all sorts of water sports on this beach. One of the people in our group took a kite boarding lesson. There are several beach club options on this stretch of beach.

The Beach Project is a boho- chic, laid back beach club. You can get two lounge chairs, a table and umbrella for 30- 60 euro depending on how close to the water you are. You walk through a lovely garden set up to get down to the water. There is a small market and farm to table restaurant on site. The food from the restaurant is grown by the owners. Being a Sunday, it was a bit subdued. We loved the quiet atmosphere and had a relaxing day.

Tonight we headed into Parikia for dinner at Mario. Parikia is a lovely town located on the water, in the perfect spot for watching the sunset. The food at Mario was delicious and the staff and service were exceptional.

We went to the Viva Punda beach club this afternoon on Punda Beach. This is a small, somewhat protected beach. This was not my scene. It felt like they were trying too hard. It is set up to be much more of a party scene, although we were there on a Monday and it was a very quiet. Two beach chairs and an umbrella were 50 euro. They had a pool, restaurant and several bars. Service was good; food was just ok. DJ type music.

Dinner tonight was at Open Garden in Naousa. A fantastic meal and very reasonably priced. The food was great and the staff and service were very good.

This morning I visited several different properties.

Perilio: 33 rooms in 8 different categories, one 5 bedroom villa and three 3 bedroom villas. The villas are located up on the hill and all come with private pools. The villas just opened on June 26 of this year.

The hotel has two restaurants and another one planned for opening next year. This feels very much like a wellness space. Quiet and surrounded by nature. There is a huge pool, and although I felt it was quiet, i was told that they get a lot of families. They recently became a part of the Bonvoy Program as part of the Design Hotels brand and are working on becoming part of the Stars program (Marriotts premium program for travel consultants). They are members of the elite Virtuoso program. They are sister properties with Cosme and there is a free shuttle a few times a day between the two properties. There is an adequate gym and a very pretty, but small, spa with two treatment rooms.

The closest beach is a 15 minute walk and it is a 10- 15 minute drive to Naousa. The property has complimentary cars that clients can use.

PROS: I loved the design of this property. The pool area was great and they had a decent gym. This felt like a true wellness and nature retreat. As part of the Virtuoso program, our clients get free breakfast, resort credits and possible room upgrades.

THINGS TO NOTE: Very few rooms actually have sea views and the hotel is not walking distance to anything in town and 15 minutes to a beach, so it could feel a bit isolated.

Cosme: 40 rooms in 8 categories; the hotel opened in 2022. They have connecting options but no multi bedrooms suites. Their entry level rooms are a great size; 377- 420 sq ft

The hotel has two restaurants and a lovely space where clients can plan private dinners for up to 12 people. Big infinity pool with lots of chairs, a pool bar and restaurant on the beach. We did not eat here, but I was told they have one of the best restaurants on the island. This hotel is located right on the water and has a full beach club. They are part of the Bonvoy Program as well, and are part of the elite Stars Program. They had a larger gym, although it was laid out a bit strange, so I don't think they had any more equipment than Parilio. Small spa with two treatment rooms.

You can walk along the beach into Naousa (10 minutes) where they have several many restaurants and shops.

PROS: Located right on the beach and walking access to Naousa. Being a part of the STARS program, our clients get free breakfast, resort credits, possible upgrades and access to the Marriott Guardian Angel concierge service.

THINGS TO NOTE: On windy days, you almost can't sit out at the pool and the beach side restaurant cannot open. This is a serious consideration on this island, where windy days are the norm.

Parocks: 40 rooms with several connecting options. One two bedroom suite. All rooms either have a private pool or jacuzzi. Suggest booking a superior category or higher. Very clean, minimalist design. Opened in 2022. Bookable on Mr and Mrs Smith to get additional benefits.

The hotel has one large restaurant and a big outdoor pool bar. The pool is large and there seems to be plenty of seating. There is a VERY small gym with a few pieces of equipment but they are planning to improve and expand next year. They have a spa area with a sauna. There is a secret beach that is right across the street. You have to take about 25 steps down and they do have the ability to set up a beach club type setting, but it is super small and weather dependent. About a 10 min walk to a much larger beach.

PROS: Love the design of the hotel. Very trendy and upscale vibe.

THINGS TO NOTE: The pool area was probably my least favorite, but that certainly doesn't mean it wasn't great. Only one restaurant can be an issue for certain clients. Entry level rooms only have one sink in the bathroom.

This afternoon we went to Lefkes. The town was built in the 17th century in the interior of the island to escape from the rampant piracy that plagued the coastal villages. You drive through olive groves and ancient terraced landscapes to one of the higher points on the island. The town is quintessential Greece, with it's whitewashed walls, narrow alleys and a large church as its focal point. We loved exploring the streets and shops and had lunch at Agnadio Grill House where we had lamb kabobs and gyro platters.

This evening was an absolute highlight of the trip with a private chef who came to the villa. Hands down the most authentic, delicious Greek food of the entire week. He prepared a 5 course meal with wine pairings from around Greece and it was an outstanding culinary experience. It was not inexpensive, but worth every cent and the chef was a true talent.

Today we chartered a private catamaran for the day. I mentioned earlier in the itinerary, the wind can be brutal around the island and we did end up cancelling our charter on Tuesday due to high seas. Today ended up being the most picture perfect weather, but it was truly the ONLY day this week that we would have been able to do a boat tour.

We visited the Blue Lagoon, Apollo's temple on the small, uninhabited island of Despotiko and ended at some small beautiful beaches on the coast of Antiparos.

The catamaran was perfect for our group with plenty of space for lounging and spreading out. There was a dingy on the boat to take people to shore and two bathrooms on board. We had a lovely woman on board who prepared snacks and lunch for us. Be sure to ask for a DETAILED description of the food and beverages that will be available on board. We were told that snacks, coffee and water would be served, so we stopped and bought sandwiches to bring on board. They ended up serving us more food than we could eat and having wines and a few spirits on board as well, so there was definitely no reason to have brought additional food.

An absolute must do if you are staying on Paros.

We got on and off the boat in Alyki, a lovely seaside town with great sunset views. We got off the boat around 5:30 and stopped at one of the restaurants on the beach for drinks, appetizers and a beautiful sunset.

We were supposed to take the ferry to Mykonos today but the winds were too strong. Be aware that they can cancel ferries due to weather, so if you are traveling to other islands, you will want to check the expected weather for the way home as well. Although we could have made it over on the morning ferry, the afternoon weather looked very suspect and the we didn't want to chance getting stuck on Mykonos for the night.

Instead, we rented a Gator for the day and explored the island. It was fun for the day, but I wouldn't personally recommend it as your only mode of transportation. It is dusty and windy and not an appropriate way to get around at night.

We hiked the Mycenaean Acropolis. This is not a well defined trail and requires some scrambling up rocks, but you are well rewarded with amazing views and the ruins of a city from 1300 BC. Quite a few walls are left standing and you can pretty much just walk around the ruins, built into the side of a cliff with views at the top out over the sea. It is clearly not a place that is heavily traveled and we felt truly alone and adventurous!

The rest of the afternoon was spent at Monastiri Beach Club. Our favorite! Elevated scene with a great restaurant and tons of seating. The beach is completely protected and the water is no more than thigh deep for about 50 yards off shore. Drinks were great and the staff was super friendly.

Stopped at Paros on the Rocks for drinks on the way home. Gorgeous view and interesting drinks.

We ate dinner at Halaris in Piso Livadi. The general consensus was this dinner wasn't as good as the others but we really enjoyed seeing Piso Livadi.

The wind was howling today, so we weren't even able to sit at the pool. We hung in town and did some last minute shopping. Had drinks on the beach at Fotis, located right on the water but a bit protected. Some in the group had breakfast at Calypso and said it was very good.

We had a cooking lesson this afternoon with Maria and her lovely daughter in Drios. An absolute highlight. The wine was flowing while we made 5 different traditional Greek dishes. During the 2 hours we were there, we heard stories, learned about the traditional Greek kitchen, learned dances and listened to music. It was a wonderful way to spend the day and we went home with over 60 of Maria's family recipes.

We had an early morning flight back to Athens. You do not need to arrive too early to the Paros airport. It is tiny and there is no where to go once you check in. Arriving 45- 60 minutes early to check a bag is plenty of time.

A few notes on whether to book a home or stay in a hotel. Of course, different situations call for different options. On Paros, renting a home is a fantastic option. We loved having private space for just our group, as well as having great common spaces for us to all be together. You need a car no matter what on the island, so it was easy to get to wherever we wanted to go. The concierge team through the villa company was top notch and every bit as good as the services at any hotel. Reach out to see our portfolio of over 350 home and villa rentals in Greece.

The flight the Athens was uneventful. We had a driver waiting for us in the arrivals hall. It is one place I always tell people to pay the extra money. Having someone waiting for you to help with luggage and take you immediately to a waiting car is money well spent. In addition, it is common for taxi drivers to strike in Athens. It happened while we were there and having a private driver ensured we weren't one of the many people stuck trying to find a way to get downtown. The transfer into Athens to our hotel was about 45 minutes.

We stayed at the Perianth Hotel, part of the Design Hotels Group and a member of the Bonvoy program. Our clients receive free breakfast, a 50 euro food and beverage credit and a room upgrade at check in if one is available.

The hotel is located in an excellent location for walking to bars, restaurants and shops. You will need to walk about half a block to the front door when dropped off by your taxi, as the alley in front of the hotel is not a drivable street. The lobby is very small where you check in, but there is a library/ gathering room right next to the lobby. The hotel restaurant is huge and opens up to a plaza that is full of other bars and restaurants. The decor of the hotel fits in with the style and theme of all the Design Hotels. Clean lines, minimalistic furniture and design. There is a very small gym in the basement.

I would suggest asking for an interior room, as the area was loud and crowded, even at midnight on a Sunday night. I sleep with a sound machine, and needed it. You can definitely hear the noise from the street in the street facing rooms. I had a junior suite. The room was a decent size. The bathroom only had one sink and no separate room for the toilet. Just a few things missing that I like to see in a true 5* hotel.

All in all, I liked the hotel for it's Scandinavian design, great location and much better price point than many of the 5* options in Athens, but there isn't anything that makes it stand out either.

After dropping our luggage, we were picked up for our private tour of the Acropolis. What a marvel! You absolutely cannot go to Athens and not see it. I encourage you to get a guide who will make sure you have skip the line tickets and can tell you the stories of this amazing place. It is located up on a hill, and there is NO shade in the complex. It can be incredibly hot, especially during the summer months. Wear a hat and lots of sunscreen and take water with you. Good shoes with good tread are also a must. The marble that covers the ground and steps is well worn and extremely slippery. Plan to spend an hour and a half to two hours at the site.

After the Acropolis tour, we had a short driving tour of a few of the other sites in Athens. This is not a necessary part of the tour.

We had drinks at the 360 Cocktail Bar. You have excellent views of the Acropolis and the sunset and the drinks are creative and delicious. I had the Colorful Tsunami, which included caramel and sweet potato in the ingredients. It was DELISH, so don't be shy about taking some chances there.

Dinner was at Attic Urban Rooftop. Again, the view of the Acropolis was outstanding. This is definitely a club atmosphere. The music was loud and it was a bit hard to talk to others, but we were in that kind of mood so it was lots of fun. Food was fine.

Note that both of these restaurants charged rather steep per person fees to book the reservation and Attic had a minimum spend per person.

This morning we started out at 8 a.m. for the 2 hour drive from Athens to the Temple of Apollo, outside of Delphi.

The first stop was in Arachova for a coffee and to walk the town. It was absolutely charming. I wish we had stayed a night here. Located in the mountains, it reminds you of a small Swiss town. We only had a short time to walk the streets, but I would have loved to sit in a cafe and peruse the shops for a day.

We arrived at the Temple of Apollo, built at 8,000 feet on Mount Parnassus. It was a stunning site. You first walk through the museum, where they have a great collection of artifacts from the site. Outside, you are able to walk through the walkways of the entire complex. It really was a highlight. We had a guide for 2 hours, and it was not enough time. I highly recommend you have a guide with you to get the most out of the experience. Once again, the walkways are covered in marble and very slippery. Good shoes, a hat and sunscreen are an absolute must. Getting to the top of the complex is quite a climb, and at elevation, so give yourself enough time to be able to take it slowly if necessary.

We stopped for lunch in Delphi at Taverna Bokxoc. Family run place with amazing views of the valley below and all hand made pastas and local specialty dishes. Lovely experience.

We arrived back in Athens around 5 p.m.

Dinner tonight was walking distance from our hotel, Dopios. Small plates, so we were able to try several different things. Food was very good and the area was very lively and bustling.

Today I stopped in the King George and Grande Bretagne. Sister properties, right next to each other, they have a different feel. I was only able to see the lobbies. Both are part of our preferred hotel programs and come with added benefits like room upgrades, hotel credits and free breakfast.

Flew out this afternoon. Taxi's were on strike, which happens often. It is important in Greece to get private car transfers as it was very difficult to find taxis to get to the airport.