Hiking, food, and fun in the Dolomites

The Seceda. Now we're getting to the reason we came to the Dolomites. The gondola to the top of the Seceda dropped us in a cloud and when the weather cleared, we had majestic mountains in all directions. Using a gondola to get to the top means the hike itself is fairly easy, mostly along contour lines. Lots of people (and a few cows), but plenty of room to spread out. We found a refugio, the perfect place to stop for a beer and watch the clouds go by.

Bolzano. A trip to Italy MUST include food. We spent a day in Bolzano on a guided tour, sampling the local delights. Although we're in Italy, the food is distinctively Tyrolean, more like German. Bolzano is known for its bread. Schüttelbrot is a tasty flatbread like Ryvita, but we liked the homemade pretzels better. We tried the Tris di Canederli, three colored (non)meatballs made of beet, spinach, and cheese. I also tried the purple risotto, (blueberry, cabbage, and beets), but too salty for my taste. The typical dish is spätzle (noodles), with speck (ham), a bit bland after the risotto. Bozner beer is brewed locally, with traditional lagers and wheat options. We finally found a pizza and the beautiful Bolzano cathedral.

Refugios. Our second day of hiking brought us back to the mountains, starting at Selva di Val Gardena, the base of a ski hill. Once more we followed contour lines, passing half a dozen lifts going down into the valley. This route had a bit more up and down, but we discovered that every mile or so we could rest at a refugio. They all had plenty of food (sausage, sauerkraut, and strudel), beer, and restrooms. Some of these chalets were so remote that they're restocked regularly by helicopter delivery. The hills were alive with the sound of music and the silence of paragliders. Back at the ski resort lot is one of the world's smallest churches, with unique stained glass inside recognizing a rock climber and a skier.

Lake Garda. Lake Como is very famous so we thought the less famous Lake Garda would give us the same natural beauty, without the big crowds. It was definitely beautiful, but still pretty busy for lovely automn days. We stayed right along the lake, where we could watch the windsurfers, walk along lakefront shops and restaurants, and rent bikes to pedal next to the river toward the mountains, a nice leisurely ride. We found our favorite restaurant, Osti l'Osteia, with NO PIZZA, but other delicious Italian food and a great outdoor space for kids to be entertained (on a trampoline) while parents enjoyed the food and drink. And of course we had spritz and gelato, both of these with passion fruit.