Norwegian Fjord Cruising

The evening before our Sognefjord voyage, we strolled through Bergen searching for nourishing Norwegian fare. Just a short walk from the tram, we stumbled upon Søstrene Hagelin and feasted our eyes on seafood delights. Fish soup, fishcakes, and bacalao with all the fixings made this our tastiest meal in Norway.

The gastronomic finds didn’t end there, as we walked through Fisketorget, Norway’s most famous fish market. Situated along the harbor, the bustling outdoor market sells fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables, and intriguing street food you’ll only find in Scandinavia. The market has operated for centuries and remains the heart and soul of this gateway to the fjords.

We continued to wander along the water, admiring the brightly-colored wooden merchant houses that pay homage to the Hanseatic League’s trading empire. Bryggen, Bergen’s old wharf, showcases a world of narrow alleyways, boutique shops, artist studios, and historical museums tucked between medieval-style wooden buildings of a once vital trading post.

Before calling it a night, the old wharf and mountain peaks surrounding Bergen made a delightful background for photos. Bergen is famously known as the “city between the seven mountains,” with the Fløibanen funicular climbing Mount Fløyen for a breathtaking aerial view. Had we stayed in Bergen another day, this would have been a must-do activity. Instead, we took in the exquisite architecture, historic sites, and cobblestone paths lining the Bergenhus district. Our final stop for the evening was the immaculate Byparken, with its lovely flower gardens dotting the landscape as we waited for the bus.

Up bright and early, we returned to the harbor for our 8:00 a.m. departure through Norway’s longest and deepest fjord. Despite the excitement, we desperately needed coffee, a nap, or both. Our vessel cruised by other ships, exited the harbor, and gave us a front-row seat to Bergen’s rocky coastline. Little islands, evergreen forests, charming boathouses, and hidden inlets revealed the tranquil surroundings just outside of Bergen. The perfect environment to relax before we entered the fjord, where the scenery would take a dramatic turn.

Flåm, famous for its railway that offers one of the world’s most breathtaking train rides, was our ferry’s final destination. But we stopped in several endearing villages along the way to pick up and drop off passengers. The water’s striking emerald hue and rising forest-lined cliffs greeted us as we turned into the mighty fjord. Sailboats and kayaks docked right against the fjord as we made our first stop in the quaint little village of Vik.

Our next stop was Balestrand, which proudly boasted its gorgeous mountain backdrop. As we approached Sognefjord’s scenic, narrow branches, every turn resembled a gift shop postcard. Waterfalls tumbled down the cliffside, farms and orchards dotted the landscape, and the high mountains towered above. We turned into Aurlandsfjord, where the waterway narrowed further, and the mountains seemed to rise higher. After cruising by the scenic Undredal, famous for its goat cheese, and stopping in Aurland, known for the jaw-dropping Stegastein viewpoint, we disembarked in Flåm.

It’s a no-brainer that Flåm is a busy transport hub in the Norwegian fjords. Ferrys, buses, shuttles, and a train transport travelers to other beautiful Norwegian towns and villages. We had a couple of hours to spare, so we grabbed a bite to eat at the street food market before riding a bus to nearby Gudvangen. Whether you need coffee or grub, Flåm is definitely the spot for a mid-day pick-me-up.

Gudvangen offered a quieter vibe, with a glimpse into the Viking Age. Situated on the Nærøyfjord, often considered the wildest and most beautiful arm of the Sognefjord, Gudvangen lets you wander a re-created Viking village and sample traditional dishes at the Viking diner.

After a cloudy morning and early afternoon, the sun glistened as we waited for the ferry to nearby Undredal. We gazed at kayakers, breathed the fresh mountain air, and admired the untouched beauty of the Nærøyfjord. The ride from Gudvangen to Undredal is short but possibly the most magical fjord journey in the world. The state-of-the-art ferry barely emits a sound as you coast through the narrow arm of the Sognefjord. Nærøyfjord, one of two Norwegian fjords listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for “exceptional natural beauty,” is only 250 meters wide at its narrowest. Sheer mountain walls rise high above green pastures and idyllic villages, while small boats quietly cruise through the deep-blue water. It’s one of the prettiest images you’ll ever see.

We hopped off the ferry in Undredal and stayed the night in this humble village of fewer than 100 residents. Goats actually outnumber humans here 5 to 1. And there’s no better spot in the Norwegian fjords to taste the world-famous brown goat cheese. Undredal also features Scandinavia’s smallest stave church, an adorable white wooden building first constructed in the 12th century.

After a full day of cruising the Sognefjord and its narrow arms, we needed some downtime to enjoy the fjord countryside in one of the villages. With the sun shining, we boarded the ferry from Undredal and cruised back to Flåm. From there, we rode a bus to Balestrand to spend the next two nights.

While riding the bus to Balestrand, we had the unique opportunity to travel a route where the bus loaded onto a ferry to make a water crossing. The ideal spot for a coffee break! Not long after our water crossing, the bus dropped us off a short walk from town. Apple orchards, blooming flowers, and evergreen mountainsides greeted us as we settled in our accommodation beside the fjord.

Soon after, we ambled along the bicycle path while searching for a dinner spot. One of the few places still open when we arrived was Gekkens Restaurant & Café. Simple yet hearty fare paired with a glass of refreshing Ciderhuset apple cider hit the spot for a relaxed evening.

A chill, low-key day in Balestrand; our main highlight was a visit to Ciderhuset. Just a short walk from our accommodation, the family-owned cider producer has grown fruit along the Sognefjord shores for about a century. The first floor has the shop, where you’ll find cider, fruit wines, and food products all made with local ingredients. We wanted to stay for a tasting, so we went upstairs and sat down on the outdoor deck, with a stunning view of the orchards, fjord, and distant mountains. We each ordered a cider flight and split a cheese platter while basking in the sunlight. In addition to its shop and restaurant, Ciderhuset hosts groups and other tasting experiences. It’s a must-visit when you’re in Balestrand, especially in summer.

For the rest of the day, we meandered at a slow pace, exploring anything interesting that crossed our path. After hanging out by the apple orchards, where we met a feline friend, we visited St. Olaf's Church. Built in the late 19th century, the humble stave-style Anglican church seats nearly 100 people and still offers services to residents.

On the way back, we found a small, man-made swimming lagoon perfect for a dip in the fjord. But the temperature was already dropping, so we settled for going barefoot in the sand. Watching the sunlight fade behind the mountaintops perfectly ended a peaceful day in Balestrand. We had a long journey ahead to depart Norway the next day, so the R&R was much needed.