Zion & Bryce Canyon Couple's Getaway

We arrived late the night before into St. George from Chicago, ORD. After many delays, we felt lucky to have made it in by 11:30pm. We were also grateful (and a little guilty) that we had rented a Turo car instead of from a standard rental company as the line grew with passengers from our flight.

The drive to Under Canvas Zion was about 45 minutes. We wondered what surrounded us as we drove under a star-filled sky, exhausted and super hungry. I wasn’t sure if the texts I was receiving from UC were automatic or from a real person, but I asked if there might be a little something to eat when we arrived, knowing everything was probably shut down. I said I was hoping for a “banana” or some other snack, and Reese (whom we would soon adore!) replied that there were no bananas, but plenty of other snacks waiting for us.

Tiny dots up and down in elevation came into view, looking like something from Star Wars or Dune. We entered the main “tent,” which feels like cheating because this space felt like a place I could call forever home. Reese’s warm presence immediately made us feel welcome, even though we felt like we were invading this beautiful, peaceful refuge so late. She gave us the lay of the land and told me she had saved the perfect tent for us, a little tucked away with a good view.

I couldn’t get over the glow of the main tent, where we would enjoy many exceptional meals, good wine, games and conversation. Before we headed to our tent, Reese told me to rub my eyes, keep them closed, then open them looking at the stars. She was right. They exploded in front of me, the perfect sight before turning on the glow of our lanterns.

Our tent was beyond beautiful, and the cozy bed put us to sleep before we even knew it.

We awoke a little later than we wanted and were blown away by our view, surrounded by a stunning array of every shade of orange, white and pink. We ambled down to the main area and ordered “Dusky Lattes” and egg sandwiches, with a homemade cheese danish to go. OMG delicious.

With Bryce Canyon on the agenda, and with our late start, we decided to reserve our e-bikes for the following morning in Springdale first. Good move, as they tend to sell out. The guys at Greater E-Bikes were super helpful. We reserved our bikes and planned to come back that evening after Bryce for our tutorial.

Bryce was about a two-hour drive through Zion National Park. Here you must purchase your park pass. BUY THE ALL PARKS PASS! We didn’t, buying both a Zion and Bryce Parks Pass. Still $70 total..but if we do hit another park, the all parks at $80 makes the best sense. The canyon drive toward Bryce, Zion-Mount Carmel Highway, is stunning. Stop at the Canyon Overlook Trail, a short hike and incredible view.

As we got closer to Bryce, we were shocked by the electric orange rock formations. We stopped at the Visitor Center for advice on the best hike for us, but first, food. The main option on this side of the park was the classic Bryce Canyon Lodge, built in 1925. With no time for the dining room, we opted for the quick pizza place next door. Next time, I’d pack a lunch. The pizza was not so great, but the Caesar salad was just fine. FYI!

We headed out on the Queen’s Garden–Navajo Loop, clockwise, moderate and 2.9 miles. I felt like I was stepping onto a sacred path. I couldn’t help thinking of the people who lived here, raised families, and found a way to exist and thrive in this climate. I still feel the same pang in my heart as when I was little, learning the history of Native Americans of our land. Winding through this path felt nothing short of ethereal. Look for Queen Victoria Hoodoo and Thor's Hammer. I studied up on these post hike, and it would have been fun to look out for them intentionally.

We made it through the hike in about an hour. We were glad we began on the Queen’s Garden side, as we had almost mistakenly entered via Navajo, which has a very steep descent. The ending, up Navajo, was crowded and loud, with scores of people yelling to family members. I couldn’t help but feel a little sad again. To me, a place like this called for reverence.

After our tutorial at Greater E-Bikes, we headed back to Under Canvas for an awesome dinner. Cally was back after a midday break, full of heart, smiles, and spirit. I loved my cactus fruit margarita ("yes it comes with a tajin blend rim") and Paul his Sauv, along with shrimp tacos, of course, homemade chips, and a guac dip that was perfectly not ordinary.

We passed on the complimentary s’mores and the Bananas Foster I spied as a special. Too much pizza. Another night!

Bryce Canyon Lodge is awesome. Next to the property and right at the trail entrance are bungalows you can stay in as well as the hotel. They are beautiful, and if you want to extend your stay in Bryce by a couple of days, I'd recommend it. We did stop for a slice of "Ho-Made" pie to go from Thunderbird restaurant. I couldn't resist the old-school kitschy allure of the signage. The Thunderbird pie was good, but next time I'd try the coconut!

-Also, a Native American park worker shared the best advice for a future visit: hike the Peekaboo Trail at night under a full or half moon. He explained how the fine dust glows under the moonlight, and the shadows of the hoodoos create a peek-a-boo effect along the trail.

This encounter will stay with me. He was incredibly kind and generous with his time, and had such warmth and enthusiasm for this extraordinary place and for the people experiencing it. I left our conversation feeling genuinely touched. He also mentioned driving the full 19-mile length of the park to the other side for stargazing. ✨

4:20 wake-up time. Reese was waiting for us in the main tent and made us pre 5am coffee for the drive into Springdale. We grabbed yogurts and their "trail sandwich" (that little sandwich, so good!) and picked up our bikes, locked up and ready for us.

We were alone in the normally bustling town as we rode toward the Pa’rus Trail, which takes you straight into Zion National Park. Our bike lights led the way through the pitch-dark trail, stars twinkling overhead as we crossed bridges, winding through trees, making our way onto the main paved road through Zion.

Another experience for the books. I wanted to start our adventure before the buses began picking up passengers at 7am, and this was the only way to do it unless we stayed inside the park at Zion National Park Lodge, another classic old-school lodge with bunglalows redone in gorgeous rustic SW decor. We stopped there to use the restroom and inquire about coffee, which they hadn’t even made yet. We were early!

We arrived at the Narrows trailhead, locked our bikes and made our way down the mile-long paved path to the “trail.”

When we arrived and my husband looked puzzled by the trail, which was actually the Virgin River riverbed, ankle-deep water. I reminded him that THIS was why we were supposed to bring shoes we didn’t mind getting wet and that could grip river rocks. And a bathing suit, as an optional slip on versus hiking shorts. I was so comfortable in my T-strap Tevas that I just left them on. I was VERY grateful I’d opted for the hiking stick at the bike shop. It was essential for staying steady in the rushing water.

There wasn’t a person in sight as we made our way between stories-high canyon walls. The water was thigh-deep in places, and I began enjoying the warmth of it on my legs compared with the cool morning air. I was full of adrenaline from everything that lay before me.

This was the most incredible natural experience of my life so far (next to hiking from Aspen to Crested Butte in full bloom wildflower season). Pools of gray-blue water, and crystal-clear water moving over smooth stones, with enormous canyon walls rising around us. The trail is rated difficult, not because of mild elevation gain, but he challenge of navigating the rocks and water.

We explored a very narrow offshoot of the “trail,” which we later learned we could have continued much farther. Every bend brought a different challenge. Eventually we met a pool with no obvious way around it. I remembered reading about a section that could reach shoulder height on someone 5’8”. I leapt forward, ready…and suddenly my feet lost the ground. Fully submerged, I swam across. Paul, on the other side found rib-height water, right side.

That became our turnaround point, about 2.5 hours in. I was soaked and suddenly chilled. Some hikers wear waders or wetsuits, especially later in the season. We were there in late September so the advice was summer gear is OK.

As we headed back, we faced a wall of hikers coming toward us, trudging through the water like a zombie apocalypse. How could these people dare invade?! 😂

We left with this incredible feeling of awe and accomplishment that we had managed to hike the Narrows essentially alone. Chalk this one up to good planning and everything just falling into place.

The e-bikes felt wonderful cruising back down, and we stopped for a beer at the Zion Lodge Beer Garden. Loved the SLC beer, like a corona naturally salted and limey. A beer never tasted better! We chatted with a couple from Missouri. It was fun sharing common experiences about our kids in college, this next stage of life, and the newfound freedom to travel.

Back in town, we stopped at a cute little coffee shop, Deep Creek Coffee, for Mexican Mochas, appropriately named after our adventure. After dropping off our bikes, we felt Under Canvas calling us. It was still semi-early, and we wanted a full evening to enjoy the glow of camp and celebrate our awesome shared experience.

Dinner, again, was exceptional. We opted for the Vinho Verde we’d had our eye on, and it did not disappoint!!! Skirt steak, burger, and the most incredible corn and burrata...honestly might be best I've had.

S’mores, games, guitar, cozy. Goodnight.

Paul was experiencing nerve pain, and knowing he always likes a chill day built into a trip, I planned a spa-kind-of day. We had spied Five Petals the day before, and luckily they had two massage appointments at 11:30.

Afterward, with Paul feeling so good post-massage, I convinced him we should venture back into the park. I mean, c'mon. We are at Zion National Park. We took the electric bus in (there are no cars allowed on this corridor except for Zion Lodge guests) and managed the Weeping Rock trail where we saw long horned sheep, just above, curiously observing us, and middle and upper Emerald Pools, taking the Kayano Trail over to the Grotto Trail entrance.

After, we chose Oscar’s, known for its awesome Mexican and American fare. It was older and cool, with lots of atmosphere. Despite the crowd outside, the wait was only about ten minutes, so I popped into the vintage shop next door and found a really cool cardigan that reminds me of Mr. Rogers.

I wanted a marg, but they couldn’t serve tequila on their side of the street because of their proximity to a school (Utah!). Our waiter said most people hoping for a margarita opt for their homemade sangria instead which was delicious. I had to have a bit of Paul’s green chile burrito, so good, and my homemade black bean burger hit the spot.

Back at UC, it was cozy fire time, where I finally ordered the bananas Foster along with a dark rum, cactus and orange cocktail. We met the effervescent Ruth who joined our firepit, a lovely sixth grader on a geological adventure with her mom and dad, and shared stories of our older kids.

Cally told me the chef was happy I ordered the Bananas Foster because he loved making it. Best vibes, best everything.

The next morning, another Dusty Trail Latte for the road, plus two homemade muffins, chocolate and one that tasted like gooey butter cake. Goodbyes to Drew, another awesome staff member, had me feeling wistful and so grateful for this incredible experience. We picked out souvenirs with help from the lovely front desk staff.

We’re already planning another Under Canvas adventure, but next time, we’re bringing the “kids.”