4:20 wake-up time. Reese was waiting for us in the main tent and made us pre 5am coffee for the drive into Springdale. We grabbed yogurts and their "trail sandwich" (that little sandwich, so good!) and picked up our bikes, locked up and ready for us.
We were alone in the normally bustling town as we rode toward the Pa’rus Trail, which takes you straight into Zion National Park. Our bike lights led the way through the pitch-dark trail, stars twinkling overhead as we crossed bridges, winding through trees, making our way onto the main paved road through Zion.
Another experience for the books. I wanted to start our adventure before the buses began picking up passengers at 7am, and this was the only way to do it unless we stayed inside the park at Zion National Park Lodge, another classic old-school lodge with bunglalows redone in gorgeous rustic SW decor. We stopped there to use the restroom and inquire about coffee, which they hadn’t even made yet. We were early!
We arrived at the Narrows trailhead, locked our bikes and made our way down the mile-long paved path to the “trail.”
When we arrived and my husband looked puzzled by the trail, which was actually the Virgin River riverbed, ankle-deep water. I reminded him that THIS was why we were supposed to bring shoes we didn’t mind getting wet and that could grip river rocks. And a bathing suit, as an optional slip on versus hiking shorts. I was so comfortable in my T-strap Tevas that I just left them on. I was VERY grateful I’d opted for the hiking stick at the bike shop. It was essential for staying steady in the rushing water.
There wasn’t a person in sight as we made our way between stories-high canyon walls. The water was thigh-deep in places, and I began enjoying the warmth of it on my legs compared with the cool morning air. I was full of adrenaline from everything that lay before me.
This was the most incredible natural experience of my life so far (next to hiking from Aspen to Crested Butte in full bloom wildflower season). Pools of gray-blue water, and crystal-clear water moving over smooth stones, with enormous canyon walls rising around us. The trail is rated difficult, not because of mild elevation gain, but he challenge of navigating the rocks and water.
We explored a very narrow offshoot of the “trail,” which we later learned we could have continued much farther. Every bend brought a different challenge. Eventually we met a pool with no obvious way around it. I remembered reading about a section that could reach shoulder height on someone 5’8”. I leapt forward, ready…and suddenly my feet lost the ground. Fully submerged, I swam across. Paul, on the other side found rib-height water, right side.
That became our turnaround point, about 2.5 hours in. I was soaked and suddenly chilled. Some hikers wear waders or wetsuits, especially later in the season. We were there in late September so the advice was summer gear is OK.
As we headed back, we faced a wall of hikers coming toward us, trudging through the water like a zombie apocalypse. How could these people dare invade?! 😂
We left with this incredible feeling of awe and accomplishment that we had managed to hike the Narrows essentially alone. Chalk this one up to good planning and everything just falling into place.
The e-bikes felt wonderful cruising back down, and we stopped for a beer at the Zion Lodge Beer Garden. Loved the SLC beer, like a corona naturally salted and limey. A beer never tasted better! We chatted with a couple from Missouri. It was fun sharing common experiences about our kids in college, this next stage of life, and the newfound freedom to travel.
Back in town, we stopped at a cute little coffee shop, Deep Creek Coffee, for Mexican Mochas, appropriately named after our adventure. After dropping off our bikes, we felt Under Canvas calling us. It was still semi-early, and we wanted a full evening to enjoy the glow of camp and celebrate our awesome shared experience.
Dinner, again, was exceptional. We opted for the Vinho Verde we’d had our eye on, and it did not disappoint!!! Skirt steak, burger, and the most incredible corn and burrata...honestly might be best I've had.
S’mores, games, guitar, cozy. Goodnight.
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